Wednesday, January 9, 2008

The stories of my cooks - by Swagata

The story of my cooks

I hired a cook (I will call him P) in August – a man in his mid-thirties. I found he was a very talented cook. He used to work as chef in clubs and in the Rajdhani Express, and other restaurants. Besides my house, he worked in 3 other houses, earnings about Rs. 10000 per month. He owned his own little house. So, his financial situation was not too bad. He had an 8 month old son, and his wife stayed home with the baby.

Besides being a good cook, he talked very sweet. He would tell me what high dreams he had for his son, how he would have just one child, and put all his efforts and resources in bringing him up. His son should go to college and be educated.

Both my sister-in-law (in whose house he worked too) and I were very impressed with him. Towards the end of his 2 months service, he started getting irregular and taking time off. Still, my sis-in-law and I were very sympathetic to his needs, since he was such a good cook. We figured if we supported him a little bit, he could really rise in life, given his talent. He could do catering in parties that provide good income. At the end of September, he asked that we pay his October’s salary in advance. My sis-in-law and I agreed. Since Durga Puja (an eventful Bengali festival) was coming up, we also gave extra bonus to buy a bicycle for himself, so he could bike to work, instead of walking.

He stopped coming to work from the very next day. And, he went missing for 3 days after that. His wife had no idea where he was. She cried and cried till her eyes were red and swollen. Her parents went to the nearby villages to look for him. His wife said there was no money in the house, no food; she did not know what to do. She also had no idea what his monthly income was.

After 3 days, P shows up in his house, without a penny in his pocket. Later we found out he had a drinking problem. He drank up all the money (close to $250) in 3 days. It was also discovered that he had a mistress on the side, and hold your breath, she was married too. My brother later discovered that his new bottle of Chivas Regal Whisky, that he had bought all the way from Europe and was saving it for a special occasion, was empty. And, this also is a common story I later heard from many – the male servant will drink up all your alcohol in the house and fill up the bottles with water!

My second cook
I don’t give up, do I? Well, these people come looking for work, and I figure why not? This time it is a woman. OK cook, nothing great, but she does a lot of the mundane work for me in the kitchen. She always seems so needy and so poor. I found out she has 9 children – she is a Muslim woman, and they do not believe in birth control. I asked her if she got herself operated on. She answered her husband died 4 years ago. He was an auto rickshaw driver. Worked one month, stayed home and lay in bed for the next 2 months, and so on. He had a terrible drinking problem, spent all his money on alcohol. When he would finish his money, he would try to take her earnings. In the process, a fight would ensue, and all neighbors would hear the screaming and yelling that went on.

I did not even bother to ask her how he died – she is better off without him.

I remember when I was growing up, the problems in the maids community was the same. An alcoholic husband, beating up the wife and taking her earnings, a house full of children. Self-inflicted poverty, it is called.

The wisdom here is if you want to help the poor people, never hand out money to the men folks – they will drink it all up. Best is to help the women, and feed and educate the children. The women too – someone who was helping pay her maid’s children’s tuition, would herself go to the school to pay. If she handed the tuition money to the maid, on the way to school, the maid would see something she wanted to buy, and would spend her children’s tuition money on that.

That is why they say – if you want to help, work at the grass roots.

Diwali 2007 (by Swagata)

During Diwali, I saw a side of my son’s personality I had never seen before. My quiet, calm child taking off with his friends to light all different kinds of firecrackers, totally unafraid, and thoroughly enjoying the lights and the sounds; the louder the noise, the happier it made him. Lighting up ground sparklers, and then dancing in the flames. Crying ‘Awesome’, and jumping up and down. There is something called “A typical boy”, and that was what he had become.


At the end of it all, we found him going around looking for unspent firecrackers, putting them all in a heap, and making a bonfire out of them!

Our entire complex had met in front of the main gate, with their repertoire of firecrackers, and the collective shooting of crackers and all different kinds of sparklers went on for 2 hours. All their lives, my children had only seen fireworks in the sky during 4th of July, never went near one or set one on. This was the first time that Rohan could be an active participant, and he truly lived it up. I was amazed at Rohan’s bravery, and kept screaming at him to keep safe distance. He, of course, ignored me. But then these are the things childhood is made up of. Next day in the newspapers, you read about all the eye injuries that happened from errant firecrackers.

Rohan thinks his life in the U.S. was too sterile. Making appointments for playdates, and then having to drive there, as opposed to simply walking over to one of the 14 friends’ homes and knocking on the door. Walking back home with friends after dark, or simply getting a ride on a moped from one of the older kids. Or, sitting on the back of someone’s bicycle. Gives a child more sense of freedom, I suppose.

Friday, October 19, 2007

Buying a washing machine (by Cor)

First you have to know that there is automatic and semi automatic.

The diff is that semi automatic you need to put laundry in spinner after wash (a separate tub).

So I ask the clerk; I put the clothes in the tub, push a button and wait. When done I put laundry in the spinner and then hang it up to dry (no dryers here).

I confirm, is this all I need to do – yes Sir.

Swagata goes to the same store some days later and gets the same story, but she asks about the automatic model:

Do I have to turn on the tap in order for the tub to fill? - Yes ma’m.
Do I need to turn tap off when tub is full? - Yes ma’m.
Do I need to select wash with the knob? - Yes ma’m.
When washing is done, do I have to set the knob to drain? - Yes ma’m.
When draining is done I have to fill the tub again and then select rinse? - Yes, ma’m.

WELL, THAT’S NOT JUST A SINGLE BUTTON PUSH THEN, IS IT?? - No Ma’m.

Moral of the story: you gotta know what questions to ask.

Of course, being strangers here, how do you know what the questions are?

Drivers (by Cor)

Drivers - this is when you do not have your own car and need to get what we would call a taxi - except you "hire a car" to go to the airport, or shopping, or whatever. It's usually for several hours and quite reasonable $2-$3/hour. Except paying this several times per week gets to be a hassle.

We've now bought our own car, the Mahindra Scorpio, an "SUV" - quite nice, and soooo much better than trying to get the driver to come on time and get you where you need to go. Some people have their own cars AND a personal driver, not too expensive, $125 month (yes, for the whole month - he washes your car too and runs errands).

It's funny how you see a VERY small car with a chauffeur and the passenger in the back, just like in a limmo, except the car is one quarter the size of the limmo.

It's funny how after some months here now, a Honda City (smaller than a Civic) or Toyota Corolla actually look like large luxurious automobiles. A BMW (rare) or Benz looks absolutely extravagant - of course they cost 125% more here, due to import tarrifs.

Drivers come in all shapes and sizes (old, young, smart, s....d, etc). One thing they share; when you ask them "do you know how to get to place x or place y”, they all say say yes.

Well if they kindof mumble yes, they don’t know. Be careful.

What will happen is that they take off down the street and ask directions from people along the way. Of course most of those people answer very diligently, first pointing left and then right and then another way yet – all of this resulting in mass confusion and no clear directions. Eventually you do arrive at the address – most of the time, but almost always late.

Problem is that many streets do not have names, and very few streets have street names posted. And, of course we still dont always know how to get there either, so we dont know if the driver is guessing or not.

One exception, if you need to get to the airport they get you there on time, no matter what traffic jams they encounter - it's amazing.

Random Observations by Cor

Chalta Hai

It’s just amazing sometimes:

You scream and yell at someone, because you’re frustrated, they don’t understand you, they do something stupid, or whatever – and the next instance they’ll ask “Can I get you a cup of tea”?

All teenagers come a pinch your kid’s cheeks, smile their big white-toothed and honestly sweet smiles at your children and ask their names.

You ask for directions on the road and everyone will try and help you, nobody turns away from you – no matter what they are doing, whether they are in a hurry or not.

Service at business hotels is very good, helpful and friendly - yet you will be checking in with a clerk at the reception and someone behind you will step in front of you and try to get their affairs taken care of first. This same scene is repeated anywhere you go.

If there is one foot of space between your car and the one ahead of you, some bike or car or bulloock cart, or auto-rickshaw or pedestrian will try to occupy that space – so you better inch your own car ahead, so that you don’t get pushed to the back of the pack all the time.

Cars (4 wheelers) and motorbikes (2 wheelers) honk their horns at will; honking a horn is not offensive, it is defensive; it tells people “I am here, don’t run into to me” – so you hear honking horns ALL the time, often for no reason at all. My wife jokes that her brother honks at trees.

Grid lock happens frequently (literally), even when a policeman is directing traffic. He may allow one lane of vehicles go until they fill up the entire intersection. When that’s done the other lanes of traffic try to get around the vehicles blocking the intersection, and before you know it the entire intersection is stuck. To be fair to the policeman, most drivers ignore his commands.

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Trips (by Swagata)

Whenever we get the opportunity, we make little trips. The first one was to Mysore, a much smaller city than Bangalore.
















Bangalore Railway Station

The highlight was a free open air concert by Shreya Goshal and Kunal Ganjanwala (sp?). Reminded me of the open air concerts in California, only this time it was Indian artists.

The small village of Somnathapura is about 35 klms from Mysore The Keshava Temple here was built in 1268 - Hoysala Dynasty.
We enjoy looking at ancient temples, built 700 – 1000 years ago, still standing strong.


The carvings tells stories of the Indian epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata, which just fascinate Rohan to no end. Just by studying how many hands and legs a statue has, and what instrument/weapon each hand is carrying, Rohan can make a pretty good guess which mythical character it is. Similar to Roman and Greek mythologies.




I have to thanks Bangla School of Irvine for this – that little role of a monkey in Hanuman’s army 4 years ago was enough to kindle R’s interest in the Indian epics.

When the temple was carved, the rocks were soft and therefore easy to cut. The quality of the rocks is that they harden over time.
















When the statues of Gods were washed inside the temples, the indoor drainage carried the water out.

R’s hand is in one of the outer drains. No worship is carried on in this temple now, because the deities have been looted over the centuries. This temple is now a National Monument.












Lots of scenic places too, like the Balmuri Falls near Mysore.
Balmuri Falls near Mysore















Near Balmuri

















YELAGIRI
Yelagiri is a small hill station in Tamil Nadu, about 180 klms by car from Bangalore. We drove up the hill through 14 hairpin bends, and were surprised to see an entire town complete with cows and wagons up there. AND wild pigs.














Not to mention, all those monkeys along the way.



























Time has stood still in some places.









































The monkeys know what's coming?

And then, there was this road that seemed to lead to nowhere:-

But, C and I kept walking in the rain, and found Le Auroville, a subsidiary of Aurobindo Ashram, where we were treated to hot tea.











Since it was raining on the way back, Mike, the manager, gave us his Kinetic Honda to ride back to our hotel!















The Malyalis decided to celebrate Onam at our complex this year. It is Kerala’s biggest festival – their harvest festival, and is not restricted to any particular religion. Hindus, Muslims, Christians, all come together to celebrate.

Very traditional fare.



So, we too tried our hand at the traditional costume….

Tuesday, August 7, 2007

Cor's first post

India-ahh......

“Ahh” like in Agony, or “Ahh” like in Ecstasy?

Well, this is my first post, after two months here. Been busy, getting the house set up, doing some work and ... breaking my bones ... Those of you who have read this blog before know already, I broke my wrist, yes, just walking down the street. I guess there is something to the old saying "he can't walk and chew gum at the same time". Of course I was not even chewing gum. Anyway, all I have left of this injury now is an ugly scar, some sore muscles and a steel plate (which has to be taken out in 6-12 months, I wonder if I will have the courage).

Yes, this is a place of extremes. You can feel really good here, or extremely frustrated. You can see very poor people, next to nicely middle class people (which means pretty well off compared to the other 70%). In the lay-out (read "walled off neighborhood") that we live in, you can even see that. All the home owners are well off or very well off, but the laborers written about earlier, live in a concrete block, one room place built right next to the construction site, and the whole family lives there. The empty lot next to it serves as the bathroom and the hose is the toilet paper, shower and drinking water. And they may be the lucky ones.

I'm sure we'l write more about this as time goes by.

The Indians I come in contact with are all very nice, helpful, friendly, warm, etc. All of what I had remembered and hoped to find. The kids are the biggest beneficiaries from this. Especially young boys and men all have a smile for the children and a pinch on their cheeks. But even for me, at work, everyone's is always ready to be of help, give advise, etc. It may be because I am a foreigner, but that is not the only reason. People are just very gentle here.

Ok, I had made some notes earlier about some of the experiences we had getting stuff set up in the house. This is not meant to complain, but I thought it may be an interesting illustration of what life here is like at times.

First our quest to get a gas connection, for cooking. This means a gas cylinder is delivered to your house. Seems easy enough ....

* Go to the Gas Company equivalent and they say: Need ration card before we can give it to you
* Go find out where to get that and learn that: Govt does not issue them any more
* Can get it from a commercial supplier , someone says
* Go to this place: However, does not fit under the sink, too tall.
* Can get a private connection, someone says
* Find this place and: Costs extra (almost 2x), but have 2 cylinders next day
* Ahhhh - like a good ahhh (even though it took about 2 weeks and 3,4,5 trips)
Note that most of these things cannot be done by phone, the phone is not picked up or is turned off most of the time, you gotta go there in person.

Now my loooong story about my mobile phone. As of now, I think I'm ok (i.e. it wont be turned off any more), but it was a long and arduous trip.

If you think this is a long story, just remember, I had to live through this:
1. Buy phone from some place.
2. Get driven (on the back of a scooter while the driver is talking on his mobile) to the Airtel office, the service provider, for sim card (i.e. the connection)
3. Need proof of residency, pics, copy of passport, lease, PIO card
4. I come back next day to the Airtel office with the stuff, plus Rs4,000 ($100) deposit.
5. They don’t understand PIO card (Person of Indian Origin, like a green card), but after many calls to a supervisor, it’s ok. I ask about international access on my mobile, but they say it requires a Rs20,000 ($500) deposit. I decide against it.
6. Phone gets turned on same night
7. Now I need a data card (i.e a cellular modem)
8. At the Airtel office they say a man will come tomorrow
9. Man does not show
10. Call the Airtel office but no one answers
11. Call 121 – no answer
12. Call 450 12345 – get good info, but have to go back to Airtel office
13. At the office they say “man will come today itself”
14. Go home and wait
15. Yes! Man comes, however he does not say at first, but he is here to verify our place of residency – not for the data card. After a long confusion, he says why he is here. He says, I don’t want to see your service turned off, so I came to check.
16. I go to the Airtel office and ask what happened to the man who was going to come with the data card – don’t worry, he’ll come tonight only.
17. And yes, he comes. But connection is as slow as dialup modem – it it’s of no use.
18. Next day, mobile service is turned off again – why?
19. I called 121, they say don’t worry, it was a mistake, they’ll turn it back on.
20. A couple of days later the service is turned off again.
21. I called 121, they say the man must have not filed his residency report, you need to go back to the Airtel office.
22. Back to the Airtel office (btw, it is about 3kms from here, but we don’t have a car so we have to get a taxi, and due to the road conditions, it takes 30 minutes to get there).
23. They talk and look at the paper and talk, we give them a copy of our gas connection, etc. Ok, finally they say it’s ok, service will be turned back on tonight. Don’t worry. I ask about international access, they say it is Rs6,000 ($150) – remember last time I asked it was $500. I decide to go ahead and get international calling.
24. Ok, that night I have both local and international service. Wow!
25. All the while I have been trying to get email working. I call 121, but now instead of English the message is in the local language. So I go to the Airtel office and ask. Ohh, you need to activate it. Send an SMS and it will be turned on in 24 hours.
26. I send SMS and sure enough I get no less than 6 confirmation SMS’s that the service has been turned on. But email/web access still does not work.
27. But I am happily calling the US and Holland and letting people know we’re still alive, until ….
28. A week later my service is turned off again. I call 121, but it is in the local language (remember, this used to be English).
29. So I go to the Airtel office to see what’s the reason. Well sir, you only have a Rs500 credit limit, and you have exceeded that (all those US and NL calls). But wait, I have deposited Rs10,000 already!!! Ok sir, we’ll fix it in 30 minutes. Don’t worry. Ok, and what about the language issue on 121. Ok sir, we’ll fix it in 30 minutes. Don’t worry. Ok, and what about my email access. Sir, we have no record of this, you need to send the SMS again. But I have 6 confirmation messages! Yes sir, but it does not show here, please send it again. Don’t worry.
30. 3 hours later, still no service. I call 121 from a land line, and yes! I get through to a live person. He says the service was turned off because of failure to verify residency – see above. Whaaaat, that was supposed to have been cleared up TWICE already. Anyway, he promises to turn my phone back on in 4 hours, get 121 to answer in English for me and once all items are cleared my credit limit will increase to Rs10,000.
31. Residency is not verified in the next few days, I get nervous that they may turn off the phone again, so I call 121 and they promise (100%!) to come on Tuesday before 10:30 am.
32. On Tuesday at 4PM I call and start yelling, finally they explain that the 10:30am promise was to, by that time, set a date of when the person will come to verify residency. Well i got a lot of screaming off my chest, but in the end accepted it. They promise to settle this by next week.
33. I get an SMS that my credit line is now Rs10K - whoopie, one problem solved. And, my email starts working as well, things are good!
34. Couple of weeks go by. Nothing happens.
35. I get an email that my credit line if Rs15K. Why? Dont care!
36. After some more time I decide to check on this residency situation. I call 121 and they say it has been cleared. I dont bother asking how/why. All seems well, why push it.

And, in the mean time I got a data card from another carrier, Tata Indicom (another long story, but not so long as above, so that's good), which is our internet life line. The little PC app says the throughput the 230K, but their markething brochure says it will only do 113K and it feels like 75K. But I'm NOT complaining, at least i can check email, do all our on-line paperwork and do emails, without having to walk down to by brother-in-law. ... It would be nice to get DSL and higher speeds though, but Swagata is calling that guy about every other day, so we'll get it soon.

Heh, it's just the way it is. Wisdom is recognizing the things you cannot change and I am trying to be wise.

See you later.